Handloom ‘Udupi sarees’ now in shades of areca nut ‘Chogaru’

Team Udayavani, Jul 28, 2023, 10:41 AM IST

Mangaluru: A unique method of using tannin derived from areca nuts, known locally as “Chogaru,” as a natural dye for clothing, is gaining increasing popularity year after year. The traditional “Udupi sarees,” handwoven in the quaint town of Kinnigoli, have now taken on a new and vibrant appearance with the infusion of hues from the areca nut (aka betel nut) natural dye.

For the past four months, under the guidance of the Talipadi Nekarara Sahakari Sangha (a Weavers’ Co-operative) of Kinnigoli, skilled weavers have been conducting successful experiments in dyeing handloom fabrics with a natural dye extracted from areca nut.

The cooperative efforts of the Kadike Trust have proven to be a boon for Udupi sarees, which were once losing ground amid the rush of modernization. Now, they are experiencing a resurgence in popularity, with customers eagerly seeking out handloom sarees dyed using natural ingredients.

Notably, the weavers have also succeeded in incorporating areca nut ‘Chogaru’ in the making of Ilakal sarees.

Talipadi Sangha, through their meticulous efforts, has created sarees in four shades, including brown, red, and varying shades of brown, using the byproduct of areca nut processing. Remarkably, the same dye solution can be used 2-3 times, making it an eco-friendly and cost-effective choice.

According to Mamata Rai of Kadike Trust, the yarn undergoes a fascinating transformation with each dyeing process, yielding different shades of color.

The use of natural dyes has a long history in the tradition of Udupi sarees, with colors like red, purple, yellow, gray, indigo, blue, wild almond leaves, and yellow flowers being derived from natural local ingredients. The addition of Chogaru to the palette now allows the creation of watercolor-like hues, reds, and dark brown fabrics.

According to the president of Talipadi Sangha Madhav Shettigar, the weavers are continuously benefiting from training sessions conducted by organizations like NABARD, where they learn about the various techniques of using natural dyes. Presently, they have achieved full-scale production of walnut sarees, and the demand from customers is already on the rise. The Talipadi Weavers Service Co-operative Society aims to bring these exquisite sarees to the market very soon, he said.

According to Shree Padre, a senior agricultural journalist, Chogaru is a liquid substance produced during the processing of areca nuts in hilly areas like Sirsi, Siddapur, Yallapur, and Sagar taluk. When dried in the sun, Chogaru transforms into a dark brown powder. The dye has gained widespread recognition due to its remarkable color retention properties over an extended period, making it an ideal choice as a natural dye.

Moreover, this environmentally friendly dye is cost-effective, benefiting thousands of areca nut growers in Karnataka, the leading areca nut-producing state in India.