Legs and Wheels – On-Road Journey to Kedarnath

Team Udayavani, Oct 31, 2018, 7:53 AM IST

As of now we completed visiting two ‘Dhams’ in the proposed Char Dham tour and its time now to reach our third Dham i.e.  Kedarnath.  As our journey begins from Gangotri to Kedarnath, on the way we cross Uttarkashi and Gupta Kashi, it is important to note here for a traveler to spend quality time in these cities before proceeding further.  As these two cities are important not only for their historical and mythological significance but also for god gifted picture-perfect frames. Immersed in the beauty of nature, the cities are also blessed with rich flora and fauna of the Himalayan ranges.  If Uttarkashi, is a gateway to Yamunotri and Gangotri, Gupta Kashi is a gateway to Kedarnath, we start our journey from Gangotri.  

Gangotri to Uttarkashi 

We left Gangotri by 6 pm. Our night stay was planned at Uttarkashi, so here we go!  With Bhagirathi, majestically flowing next to us, we got engulfed in scenic view throughout our journey.  Except for few honks, even the vehicle in which we were traveling did not want to disturb us. Lo!  we lost track of time and soon it was getting dark. We had no control over the sun.

As we drove this 95 plus km distance, we found it was highly risky and dangerous to travel further. It was 7.30pm and we were still 40km away from Uttarkashi.  While traveling in terrain it is always advisable not to take a risk once it is dark, even if it an experienced driver behind the wheels.  We found a good lodge near Malla- a small tinsel town on the highway and we stopped.  The food in the ‘Dhabha ‘ had very few visitors that night, but the owner was kind enough to cook exclusive ‘dal’ and ‘chawal’  us.  With river Bhagirathi, flowing just next to us, body tired… sleep engulfed us within moments! Probably that night Bhagirathi had an exclusive lullaby for the tired souls, was she as excited for us…did she know that we are all set to meet her lord. It was indeed a blissful night to nestle ourselves in the warmth of Himalayas and ‘ma’ Bhagirathi.

Uttarkashi 

Nestled in the deep folds of mighty Himalayas, Uttarkashi seeks a special attention from a traveler, as it has got a special mention in ‘Skanda purana’. It is believed that Uttarkashi gives “salvation to a living being, as gods reside here in their absolute form”. God’s presence in this place is obvious as Uttarkashi is protuberant with the best gifts from the mother earth.  The exquisiteness of the place interestingly stretched between Varuna and Assi rivers provides a feeling of being Kashi aka Varanasi and seeking lord Shiva ’s blessings is an essential part of the spiritual journey of a devoted Hindu. Uttarkashi, known for its scenic beauty is a place known for time immemorial as a chosen place for meditation, by the sages and seekers.  This gateway to Yamunotri and Gangotri is also known as ‘Kashi of the north’. We reached the temple premises of Uttarkashi by 7.30 am.

Importance of the Uttarkashi

For a religious traveler, Uttarkashi is a pious place because as great sage Jada Bharata performed a prolonged penance here.   It is also believed that Sage Parasuraman, after killing all the kings on the earth in the fierce of rage, did penance here in pursuance of salvation.   Temple of Lord Vishwanath has a resemblance to the temple built in Varanasi. Apart from its religious virtues, Uttarkashi finds its mention in epic Mahabharata. Being situated at the base of Varunavath Mountain, from which it earns its ancient name Varunavath Gram. Laksheshwar, is identified as a place where ‘Pandavas’ were sketched to be burnt alive by Kauravas, and the secret exit tunnel designed is believed to reach outskirts of Uttarkashi. Apart from Varunavath, the other mountains that surround this ‘Dev Bhoomi’ are Mahendra and Airavath Mountains.

From the Historical perspective, Uttarkashi was an important city and was ruled by Naga dynasty. The inscription on the pillar situated in the center of the Vishwanath temple justifies the same. Many more records including the travelogue of Chinese travelers are available to prove that Uttarkashi was always an important city and it continues to propel visitors towards it by virtue of its religious, spiritual and historical significance.  The valley is also rich with flora and fauna thus attracting nature lovers and trekkers who wish to take adventures journey. Among the many sightseeing places, Maneri dam, Bhaskar Prayag, Sukhi, Lanka- where the Shivlinga fell out of Ravan’s hand attracts people.  There is a mountaineering Institute which trains people, in adventures activities. Keep enough time to see and experience Uttarkashi.

Place to Stay

Uttarkashi being a gateway to both Gangotri and Yamunotri, people largely prefer to stay here. It has many ‘ashrams’ and ‘dharmshalas’ along with hotels to suit the budget of the traveler along the highways and inside the city.  Since the city caters to the varied interest of the people and remains shut during the severe winter period, the rooms are always full and overbooked, during the tourism period.  

Some Shopping!

Uttarkashi, being closer to the border of Tibet a traveler will find handicrafts of Tibet, along with work of local artisans. 

As we complete our temple circuit in Uttarkashi, Kanta(my husband),  appeared a little unhappy. He went on lamenting “this Uday(driver and tour guide) did not take us to the river”. I must say my hubby is insatiable!  But, true to his words each place we come across during Chardham yatra has its own history and mythological connotations. The enchanting beauty of each place deserves quality time in exploring and knowing the place well. But that we are on Chardham Yatra and our next destination is Kedarnath, it is important for us to proceed towards Guptakashi, which is going to our next base camp.   The distance between Uttarkashi and Gupta Kashi is around 211 km which means the journey time is a minimum of 6 hours. Hence, we move on roads again.  

On road: towards Guptakashi

It was around 11 am, when we started our journey towards Gupta Kashi. As we travel on curvy roads what catches the attention here is about the signs of flying stones. Before I finished reading the signboard, a small boulder deposited itself in front of our car!  Mighty mountain ranges, black or little brownish in color flaunting rich creative pattern on the side and on the other side deep valley with invisible bottom….  Hmm, only a driver with proficiency behind the wheel can manage the situation well. A fresh landslide and men at work clearing the same are frequently found on this route. 

As we traveled further, we met children decked in uniform, beating the cold weather, running on the national high way, to reach their school on time. ‘Where is your school’, ‘what are you studying’ I asked them, ‘thereee’ they pointed their finger…   I screwed my eyes hard but failed to see any constructed structure, which can be called as a school. ‘Spare them’ advised husband.  What actually attracted me was the wild fruit bowl which some children carried. ‘Please buy…Rs 10 only’ said a cute little boy.  Maybe it was wild apricot, yellow in color. We bought some and started tasting them while trying to chat with the kids.  Fruits were tasty…kids were cute. “If you keep stopping like this you will not reach Guptakashi today, don’t blame me…” grumbled Uday….in chaste Hindi. I wish I knew enough Hindi to give him back. As I entered the car there was a peculiar smile on husband’s face, I could decode the meaning! Let’s go… With a brief stop for lunch, our 6 hours day long journey came to a stop at Gupta Kashi. 

‘O’ Traveler… Please Remember 

Before we proceed further it is important for us to recollect certain rules of travel particularly in the terrains of Himalayas. Primarily be relaxed. Do not carry the burden of office or home with you.  Be at peace always and try connecting with nature. As you travel you will notice that you will gradually go silent and mind starts yearning for eternal peace. The body gradually gets acclimatized to high altitude breathing and you do not feel nauseating. Whenever you are in a district place buy fruits and drink a lot of water. In addition to this remember the other rules of traveling: Keep clothes to suit the weather.  Your backpack should contain, dry fruits, water bottle, small peppermints, and emergency medicines.  Do not have a jam-packed trip as the journey is not under your control. Keep a day extra always…it’s okay to reach Hardwar early. You can use the extra time to go around Hardwar or can rest your tired body in the pre-booked room. Please note each of the dham can be visited separately. Honestly, the surroundings of each dham have a lavish surrounding that they deserve exclusive trips and not just one hurried go. 

– Nandini Lakshmikantha